Planning & Installation, Continued 2
Now you can carefully mount the water blocks to the CPU and chipset cooler with the supplied mounting hardware. Remember, you don't have to make it press down with a lot of force: as long as the cooling block is well connected to the CPU and chipset, that's enough pressure. Applying too much pressure is a good way to destroy your equipment.
The CPU and chipset water blocks are installed on the motherboard
With the CPU and chipset water blocks installed, we turn our attention to our video card. We remove the existing GPU heat sink and replace it with the water block. In this case, we also remove the voltage regulator heat sink and apply the second water block to the card. After the water blocks are installed on the card, the coolant hoses can be attached. When everything's together, the card can be installed in the PCI express slot.
Both the GPU/memory and voltage regulator water blocks are installed on the video card.
With all of the water blocks installed in the PC, we can attach all of the remaining fittings and hoses. The final hoses you attach should be the ones that connect into the external liquid cooling unit. Make sure that you know the direction in which the liquid coolant travels and that it is set up to output its cooled water into the CPU block.
All of the cooling blocks and hoses have been installed.
It is at this point that we add the actual liquid coolant into the reservoir. Be careful to fill the reservoir to the level indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. As you fill the reservoir, the liquid will slowly fill the hoses. Pay close attention to all the fittings, and have a towel handy in case the unthinkable happens, such as a leak. At the slightest sign of leaking, stop what you are doing and address the problem immediately.
With all of the components attached, the system is ready for the coolant.
Assuming you have been careful and there are no leaks in the system, you will need to prime the liquid coolant to remove air bubbles. In the case of the Koolance EXOS-2, this is achieved by shorting out pins on the ATX power supply to fool it into providing power to the liquid cooling pump without powering the motherboard.
Let it run for a while, and while it's running it's a good idea to slowly and carefully tip the PC back and forth to make sure that trapped air bubbles are removed from the water blocks. As air bubbles are removed from the system, you will likely find that you have to add more coolant to the system - this is fine. After 10 minutes or so of priming, there should be no visible air bubbles flowing through the tubes. If you are satisfied there are no trapped air bubbles in the system, and that there isn't a hint of leaking, it's time to fire it up for real.
Completed, up and running!
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